Pekoe Trail Stage 18
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- Feb 28, 2023
- 4 min read
Hali-Ela to Ettampitiya
Basic stats
8.7 mi/13 km
Elevation gain: 2316 ft/706 m
Elevation loss: 705 ft/215 m
Highest elevation: 4124 ft/1257 m
Wikiloc difficulty rating: difficult
Trail navigation info
GPS route and trail description on Wikiloc:
Please see the full description of the trail on Wikiloc for information on the route. We had no issues following the trail using GPS navigation (download the free Wikiloc app and mark at the bottom of the page to make the map and info available offline, or download it in another mapping app such as AllTrails).
While the route description on Wikiloc is really thorough, we would definitely recommend using GPS navigation to make sure you don't take a wrong turn! Since the trail isn't officially open yet, there are no signs and since you go through several small towns along the way today, you will encounter a number of junctions without an obvious correct choice.
Additional trail description/editorializing
As I wrote in my Wikiloc review, this section offers something a bit unique. Less awe-inspiring views of tea (though some beautiful ones near the beginning and end) and more behind the scenes views into Sri Lankan life. It is also a steady uphill climb as opposed to the ups and downs of the other stages.
The fields and small neighborhood of houses at the beginning are all beautiful. As are the Buddhist and Hindu temples you pass along the way. We were invited into a preschool to hear the children sing a song, which was adorable.
On the downside, this was our first day hiking in rain. Many of the rocks on the trail get quite slippery so watch your step. The same is true for the steeper sections of concrete footpaths. This was also our first encounter with leeches. I found three that had attached to me and my fiancé found one. We picked off another ten to fifteen between us before they had a chance to take hold. This stage was more paved than others (probably >50%) but with a rainy day that led to less mud (and fewer leeches) so maybe a blessing in disguise.
NON-TRAIL INFO
Before you start
You'll start your day in Hali-Ela. Please see my post for stage 17 for accommodation recommendations.
Food
There were small snack shops in every tea worker village we passed; probably at least 3–4 in total. None had a salesperson in them when we passed, but you could probably find someone to track someone down if you want to buy a snack.
Otherwise, you'll be depending on packed food or one of several food options in Ettampitiya. Ettampitiya is much smaller than Hali-Ela but had several small grocery stores and snack shops as well as a few small local restaurants. Spicy Hut on the main road in the middle of town (right hand side) looked to be the nicest restaurant option (just based on looking at places as we walked past).
See below for our dinner recommendation!
Accommodations
We stayed at Hotel White Heaven about 30 minutes walking past the end of stage 18, about 10 minutes off-trail on stage 19 (follow the beginning of stage 19 and use Google Maps to figure out where to detour) and it was good! Definitely recommended, especially once their currently-under-construction addition is finished, which looks beautiful! It cost $8.30 per night for a double room when we booked it, plus we separately paid for a delicious breakfast and dinner for two people.
Our room was quite comfortable, clean, and had a beautiful view of rice patties. The owner wasn't at the hotel the day we arrived (our fault for not calling to make a reservation until we were in Ettampitiya), but his employee welcomed us. He didn't speak English (though the owner does) and there was a bit of a communication barrier but eventually we got everything squared away. We called the owner and he arranged for dinner and breakfast to be brought to us by a neighbor, and it was quite tasty (INSERT PRICE)! Would recommend! The hotel is simpler than our previous two nights' stays, but still absolutely worth staying at, and once the remodel is done, it will be downright fancy. It also had a purified water dispenser in the lobby, which was nice for refilling water bottles.
Like I said, we booked it by calling the owner at the number listed on Google Maps (077 744 4211). He also has WhatsApp but you'll reach him quicker by calling. Since it doesn't seem like the owner lives at the hotel, I would suggest calling ahead and not just showing up, since there might not be anyone there.
Other accommodation options
We didn't see any accommodation options in town, though we only walked on the main street.
Other amenities in town
Ettampitiya isn't large but you should still be able to find any groceries, toiletries, etc. you might need there.
There were a few ATMs in town, including a People's Bank (which we've had good luck with elsewhere with our US debit cards).
Responsible and sustainable tourism
Consider bringing a reusable water bottle and a filter or UV sterilizer pen (such as a Steripen) to avoid using disposable plastic bottles! Both Hotel White Heaven and The Jays Cottage (in Hali-Ela) also had filtered water dispensers, which was nice for easy refilling.
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