Pekoe Trail Stage 17

Demodera to Hali-Ela

Basic stats

8.1 mi/13 km

Elevation gain: 1742 ft/531 m

Elevation loss: 2257 ft/688 m

Highest elevation: 3921 ft/1195 m

Wikiloc difficulty rating: moderate

Trail navigation info

GPS route and trail description on Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/the-pekoe-trail-stage-17-demodera-to-hali-ela-123830233

Please see the full description of the trail on Wikiloc for information on the route. We had no major difficulties following the trail using GPS navigation (download the free Wikiloc app and mark at the bottom of the page to make the map and info available offline, or download it in another mapping app such as AllTrails). There were a few spots where there was one GPS point off and it tried to take us on a very short detour that did not exist, or two paths would run parallel briefly and we had to walk down one a bit to make sure it was the right one, but had no real issues. One note that as you are looking up the tea-covered hill from the "playground" (flat dirt area described in the Wikiloc trail description), there are two paths on the left that lead (1) past houses or (2) directly to a white house. You want the narrower trail to the right of both those paths that cuts up the hill through the middle of the tea. It is more of a trail and less of a dirt road.

While the route description on Wikiloc is really thorough, we would definitely recommend using GPS navigation to make sure you don't take a wrong turn! Since the trail isn't officially open yet, there are no signs and since you go through several small towns along the way today, you will encounter a number of junctions without an obvious correct choice.

Additional trail description/editorializing

Like stage 16, stage 17 was again, so beautiful! You will again have a paved section at the beginning but will quickly dip down onto a narrow dirt path off the left side of the road and meet up with the train tracks. There are a few paved sections in the middle and a good amount of the last 1.5 miles are on a paved road, but we didn't encounter any cars and were able to take some shortcuts through the tea to get off the road and skip some downhill switchbacks (just follow the GPS route).

As with stage 16, the route was everything you'd expect from a trail through tea plantations: beautiful and green and quiet. We never saw another trekker and only ran into a few locals going about their tea plucking/laundry-doing/wood-collecting business. The trail also goes through a few small tea worker villages along the way, so you may encounter some friendly faces there. It was never super steep and was completely dry. Lots of sun, so don't forget sunscreen!

NON-TRAIL INFO

Before you start

You'll start your day in Demodera. Please see my post for stage 16 for accommodation recommendations.

Food

There were two small snack shops in the tea workers villages along the way. Neither had a salesperson in it when we passed, but you could probably ask someone in the village to track someone down if you want to buy a snack.

Otherwise, you'll be depending on packed food or one of several food options in Hali-Ela. Hali-Ela is a much bigger town than Demodera and has a couple of big grocery stores and smaller snack and roti/samosa/vadai/etc. shops. There are also a few simple sit-down restaurants according to Google maps.

See below for our dinner recommendation!

Accommodations

We stayed at The Jays Cottage (we booked by messaging the owner on WhatsApp or it is also available on Airbnb) and it was great! Definitely recommended! It cost $14 per night for a double room when we booked it, plus we separately paid for a delicious breakfast and dinner for two people. The owner (Priyankara) is great! He ensured we had everything we needed, brought us tea and a delicious afternoon snack, and even called his sister in the UK to chat with us in English to make sure we were being well-cared for and didn't need anything that we weren't able to communicate. Priyankara's English was totally fine, but it was nice that he wanted to double check that nothing had been lost in translation. Our room was great—spotlessly clean, really comfortable queen bed with a good pillows, hot water, nice attached bathroom, and even AC if the fan is insufficient (for a small additional charge). Beautiful, clean, comfy, and affordable... what more could you want?

Priyankara asked us if we'd like dinner there (though there was no pressure to do so) and if so, what we wanted to eat. We opted in ($1.65/person) and asked for rice and curry, so not sure what others options there are but it was truly delicious and more than enough food! The included breakfast was likewise delicious!

We booked the place a day in advance by messaging the owner on WhatsApp (+94 71 914 0988 and +94 71 725 8585, or call 077 377 6400). It's an easy 8 or so minute walk off-trail, 14 minutes past the Hali-Ela train station (just follow Google Maps).

Other accommodation options

We didn't see any accommodation options in town, though we only walked on the main street. I think The Jays Cottage is a great choice though, so it's not a problem that there aren't a lot of other options!

Other amenities in town

Hali-Ela is a pretty big town, so you should be able to find any groceries, toiletries, etc. you might need there.

There was a People's Bank ATM on the right side of the main road in town if you are walking northeast but it was out of service when we walked past, and another atm on the right-hand side a little further. Google Maps indicates a few other ATMs closer to the train station, but we didn't notice them and BOC has never accepted our foreign debit cards, so probably best to make sure you have enough cash before you arrive.

Responsible and sustainable tourism

Just a suggestion that if you enjoy the places you stay and eat at along the way, to consider writing a 5-star review! It really helps small businesses get customers, especially foreign tourists, and also helps tourists find good spots to stay and eat! A free and easy way to help the communities along the trail.