Pekoe Trail Stage 16

Ella to Demodera

Basic stats

5.4 mi/8.7 km

Elevation gain: 1289 ft/393 m

Elevation loss: 1719 ft/524 m

Highest elevation: 3497 ft/1066 m

Wikiloc difficulty rating: easy

Trail navigation info

GPS route and trail description on Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/the-pekoe-trail-stage-16-ella-to-demodera-115879682

Please see the full description of the trail on Wikiloc for information on the route. We had no difficulties following the trail using GPS navigation (download the free Wikiloc app and mark at the bottom of the page to make the map and info available offline, or download it in another mapping app such as AllTrails).

While the route description on Wikiloc is really thorough, we would definitely recommend using GPS navigation to make sure you don't take a wrong turn! Since the trail isn't officially open yet, there are no signs other than the one pointing you to the Nine Arch Bridge just outside of Ella.

Additional trail description/editorializing

Stage 16 was stunning! You'll be on paved roads for a bit heading out of Ella before you turn off for the trail to Nine Arch Bridge, again for a little ways after you leave the train tracks on the other side of the bridge, and finally as you're coming into Demodera, but otherwise the route is entirely on dirt roads/wide paths through tea plantations. It's probably no more than 25% paved, maybe less.

The route was everything you'd expect from a trail through tea plantations: beautiful and green and quiet. We never saw another trekker once we were past the bridge and only ran into a few locals going about their tea plucking/laundry-doing/wood-collecting business. It was never super steep and was completely dry. Lots of sun, so don't forget sunscreen!

NON-TRAIL INFO

Before you start

You'll start your day in Ella. There are a ton of local guest houses available, so take your pick! We just made sure to check with our guest house owner ahead of time that we'd be able to store our bags there, since we only wanted to carry what we'd need on the trail. She said it wasn't a problem.

Food

There were food vendors just outside of Ella and at the Nine Arch Bridge, plus a few guest houses that you could likely get a meal at on the paved road past the bridge/train tracks. Once in the tea plantations though, there were no other food/drink/toilet options until Demodera.

In Demodera, there were a couple of local eateries with signs advertising roti/rotty and other snacks. They're not on Google maps (as of this writing), but there's one main road through town so you'll see them. We opted for lunch at H.M.K. Baker (on Google Maps) and filled up on bread in many forms. It was tasty and affordable (<$3 for 2 milk teas, 4 sausage bread rolls, and 2 sugar-covered and filled breads). And they agreed with our stomachs, which was our top priority in a lunch spot!

See below for our dinner recommendation!

Accommodations

We stayed at Berghaus Bungalow (Berghause Bungalow on Booking.com [not an affiliate link, just a regular ol' link to the place]) and it was truly so lovely! Definitely highly recommended! It cost $20 when we booked it including breakfast for 2 people. The owner (Shashi) is such a kind and thoughtful host and even served us complimentary welcome drinks! She also speaks great English and I'm sure could be a good resource if you needed help with anything. Our room (double room with mountain view) was so nice—really comfortable king bed (note there is also a "double room with mountain view" on Booking with a queen bed so if you want a king, make sure to check the bed listed under each of the room options) with a good comforter and pillows, hot water, and a stunning view of the Demodera valley and hills across the way. Giant windows, a private balcony, and our balcony even had a hammock! Beautiful, clean, comfy, and affordable... what more could you want?

Shashi asked us if we'd like dinner there (though there was no pressure to do so) and if so, what we wanted to eat. We opted in ($1.80/person in Feb 2023) and asked for vegetarian Sri Lankan food, so not sure what others options there are but it was truly delicious and more than enough food! She also served us ginger tea in the evening and it was also fantastic! The included breakfast was likewise delicious!

We booked the place a day in advance on Booking (the owner's number is 0772858608 / +94 772858608 if you want to call to book directly). It's about a 45 min (1.85 mi) walk up a pretty good-sized hill from the Demodera train station or there were plenty of tuktuk drivers in town who would have gladly driven us there. Not sure if a driver would know where the guest house was since they all seemed confused that we were staying in town, so it might be worth coordinating with Shashi, the guest house owner, in advance or calling her to give directions to a driver.

We opted to walk. This was fine, albeit a lot of uphill, and went through the whole town, on a busy road for a bit, and then uphill on a nice little windy road without any cars. We followed Google Maps and that worked well except at the junction below, where Google has a road that does not exist, and then doesn't have a road where there is one. See photo below for correct route. It doesn't add much to the total walking time.

Other accommodation options

We saw one hotel on the right as you entered town from the train station (Demodara Bridge Hotel; I unfortunately can't offer any info on whether it's a decent place to stay or not since the curtains were closed), but otherwise we didn't see any in-town accommodations. Nine Skies is a super swanky-looking hotel just east of the trail before you get into town, with prices to match ($600 per night). I think Berghaus is an obvious choice though, despite being a little outside of town!

Other amenities in town

There were a few small shops with snacks or produce if you want to stock up on trail snacks.

There was a bank on the left hand-side of the road partway down the main road in town (if you're heading south/west from the train station), but it did not have an atm.

Responsible and sustainable tourism

This is just my own opinion on things, so please feel free to form your own (to a point. Don't be an asshole). We had one kid and one adult ask us for money. I have a general policy of not just handing out money and abided by that policy here, since encouraging kids and their families to ask tourists for money instead of going to school, working, etc. isn't a great or sustainable long-term solution to the very real economic hardships of some of the folks living near the trail. I am hoping to instead find a local organization or social enterprise working with people in the area and donate money there. One tea plucker also asked if we wanted a photo of her. We declined but assume she was asking in the hopes of a small payment, and we would have paid that had we chosen to take a photo. As an aside, we don't take photos of people's faces without their permission. We will be buying all the fresh coconuts and other snacks we can get along the way, of course! If you have other thoughts on the subject of sustainable tourism, please feel to share them with me!